Matt Warshaw

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Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.

 -- Matt Warshaw ("Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing")

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this is very true

this is very true

Surfing is an art indeed . A

Surfing is an art indeed . A surfer that masters a wave is an artist and the board is his brush .

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