Big Wave Surfing

A new study from San Francisco State professor Tim Janssen is showing that "freak waves" (known as "rogue waves") are not as uncommon as once thought.

"In a normal wave field, on average, roughly three waves in every 10,000 are extreme waves," Janssen said. "In a focal zone, this number could increase to about three in every 1,000 waves. In a focal zone, the average wave height is already increased due to the focusing of energy so that an extreme wave in such a high energy area can potentially be very energetic and dangerous."

Link to story: New research sheds light on freak wave hot spots

Discovery News has a little segment where Garrett McNamara discusses surfing and wiping out on big waves in Discovery Channel Videos: Earth: Surviving A Big Wave Wipe Out

NEWPORT BEACH, CA, USA -- (March 21, 2008) - After what has been the greatest year yet in big wave surfing, nominees for the 2008 Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards have been decided in California. Considered the Oscars of big wave riding, the XXL Awards take place April 11 in Anaheim, California and feature over $130,000 in cash and prizes.

In contention for the XXL Ride of the Year Award are three amazing tube rides at Tahiti's legendary break of Teahupoo ("cho-poo") by local MANOA DROLLET ("Droll-lay") and two Hawaiian surfers, IAN WALSH of Maui and SHANE DORIAN of the Big Island. Brazilian CARLOS BURLE ("Boor-lay") was nominated for his tense moment in the curl at Ghost Tree off Pebble Beach, California while young Australian BRENNAN was acknowledged for his airborne entry into a huge barrel at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania.

Although the life of a big wave surfer may seem fast-paced the truth is much different. Big wave surfers are used to prolonged periods of downtime waiting for the next big swell to hit. As this years big wave events start (Maverick's Surf Contest on December 7th, Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational in Memory of Eddie Aikau on December 1st and the Nelscott Reef Tow-In Classic and the Billabong XXL Big Wave Challenge) surfers will be expected to answer the call within 24-hours should a swell approach.

But with epic rides and cash prizes from $20,000 up to $86,800 the wait could be well worth it. SignOnSanDiego has more in their article Big-wave surfers need patience as well as daring:

In the coming weeks and months, the world's elite big-wave surfers will remain constantly vigilant – regardless of where they are in the world – to answer the call of big-wave surfing competitions. Events in Oregon, San Francisco and Hawaii, as well as international contests judged by photographic evidence at the end of the season, already have sent the word out to surfers around the world to be on hold to respond to a report of favorable conditions.

In competition, big-wave surfing presents special challenges. Like most surf contests, big-wave events have distinct waiting periods, a time when organizers wait for the best day of waves to run the event. Unlike most surf contests, these waiting periods are months long, as the events require enormous swells and favorable conditions to bring their venues to life.

Hawaiian Pete Cabrinha collected his $70,000 check for winning the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards presented by Monster Energy in January of 2004 (pictured to the left). Pete still holds the title for the biggest wave ever ridden.

Since then the global search for extreme sized waves has only moved to top that massive feat he performed years ago. Today's big wave hunters are searching for the mythical 100-foot wave. Scientists say it is possible these waves exist, but to-date no one has ridden one yet. During Hurricane Katrina ocean buoys in the Gulf of Mexico measured 100-foot waves. In the article Surfers ride watery giants, chasing 100ft waves we talk to Australian surfer Alex Cater who has been chasing giant waves for the past five years who describes the agony and ecstasy of what they call "tow-in surfing", where a surfer is whipped by jet ski into giant waves bigger than most tsunamis.

"If you don't have a bit of fear then you shouldn't be out there," said Cater. "When the lip hits the water it makes a massive cracking sound. It's like thunder for 10 seconds."

"In Hawaii, there's a spot at Waimea that when it's really big you will be underwater and hear boulders rolling around on the ocean floor," Cater told Reuters.

Although surfwear giant Billabong offers $1,000 a foot for the biggest wave ridden each year and is offering an extra $100,000 bounty on a 100-foot wave, making a ride on a 100-foot wave net $200,000 in total prize money, money is not what drives surfers to there extreme waves.

"I think it's a primal man versus nature challenge that fuels the attraction to surfing," said Bill Sharp, who runs The Billabong XXL Big Wave Award.